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Ideas on Water proof your Electrics

Not sure if this is the correct place to post this question. It was a toss up between this forum and the General Chat one. I just thought that my question may get more exposure here?

I have a 96 Disco which is mainly used as an off-raod plaything. Creature comforts and day to day useability aren't exactly high on my list of prioritys for this vehicle.

A couple of months back I sunk for the first time whilst at a local Pay & Play site, and I mean properly sunk, leaving my interior looking like a car park at Glastonbery.

Since then I have had a lot of welding work done and I am looking at doing something to not only make the interior easier to clean out, but also protect the electrics.

I was thinking of locating the ECU inside of a battery box like this; Standard Battery Boxes | Battery Boxes | Demon Tweeks Motorsport, Motorcycle, Modifying, Parts and Accessories then sealing it up with sealent, in an effort to keep it dry, just incase I do a Titanic impression again.:o

I was thinking of painting the floor with some kind of rubberised safety paint, then putting rubber load bay liner / footwell mats over the top. Could any of you guys reccomend a paint or paint supplier to use? I will also be adding a couple of drain points front and rear, simply by drilling a hole, welding a nut over the hole, then inserting a bolt into it. Is there any easier ways that I could incorporate drain holes into the floor?

But the one think that I am unsure about is how to protect the wiring looms that run along the floor and behind the transmission cover? If any of you chaps could give me some pointers, then it would be appreciated.

And before anyone points out the obvious of not going in deep water to begin with, I have thought of that, but just cant see the fun in not doing so. :D

In advance, many thanks.

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Ho Do I know Its Safe To Drive?

Hi all,

I've been out and about looking for green lanes in my locality between home and work I've found a few I think - but how can I be sure? One of them is sign posted as a "public bridleway" and a few others posted as unsuitable for motors, does this mean all motor or juat cars and jap jeeps (LOL) ?

Is there any way to check so i dont go annoying farmers etc?

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How to (Change a LR Timing Belt)

Supplied by: Jason Crawford; last seen on LandRoverweb

If there was ever a job that was made out to be more than it should be, then this is it. Changing a timing belt on a Defender is pretty much straight forward. Mine had 164,000 on it when I changed it, I know it was done prior to that when it had 114,000 on it. When I removed the old belt it was in remarkably good condition. You'll notice some yellow dots of paint on the pictures, they weren't done by me, but I'll explain them at the end of this page. Here's how I changed the belt:

Read the full guide HERE or Download a PDF

Don't forget to get your tickets for the LRO show

The show takes place at The East of England Showground, Peterborough

next to the A1) and the show site is a purpose built showground, with toilets, showers, quality exhibition areas and tarmac roadways.

<click here to see show plan>

Land Rover Jobs - Apprenticeships

Land Rover to create approximately 200 jobs within the UK for those of you that are 16+ years of age.

Take a click over to HERE where you can read up in more detail from the official apprentices website.

No matter what type of automotive career you've set your heart on, we have an apprenticeship that will give you the skills you'll need to make the grade

Apprenticeship Pro gramme brochure

How to (Prepare your LR for wading)

You must prepare for water - if you don't it will cost...... Question is - Do you know how?

No.... then take a look and read more, click the link bellow and go straight to the advice you need to read.

read more | digg story

How to Fit a safari snorkel to a 200 discovery

How to fit a safari snorkel to a 200 discovery. Step by step guide of what to do with photos! A real life account not just an instruction manual...

read more | digg story

Biodiesel Warranty Issues (US)

What You and Your Dealer Should Know Before Your Car Breaks

read more | digg story

How to (Have your say about new Road tax)

Why not tell the select government commitee what you think of road tax.

read more | digg story

Only in America. Buy a loft, get a free LR

Think the housing bubble burst was bad for you? Job losses at Detroit automakers have hurt housing sales bad enough that in downtown Royal Oak, a suburb of Detroit, they're giving away a free 2-year lease on a Land Rover or free mortgage payments for one year with the purchase of a loft.

read more | digg story

LR Discovery Common Problems

The Land Rover Discovery is a good vehicle, has impressive off road capabilities and can allow the whole family to all enjoy the trip. There is ample room for the Driver, passenger, the kids and two dogs with enough room to spare to pack a picnic.

It does however have some common niggles; which isn't any different to other vehicles I suppose. On the Discovery they are known to be:

Gear crunch. Usually into either reverse, first or second. Most commonaly this is stated in ebay adds as "starting to niggle into 2nd" shortly followed by "it doesn't bother me, so I've left it". What this probably means is this; 'My synchromesh has started to (or has) worn and as I can't or don't want to pay for the gearbox to be dropped, striped and synch replaced - I just keep crunching the gear hoping that I don't do any more damage'. Having siad that, years ago - nothing had synchro, so we all had to learn to 'drive'. I suppose, today, we simply dip the clutch and expect everything to fly in.

Steering Wobble or shimmy. Your driving along at say 50mph or so, hit a bump in the road (which is unavoidable) and you end up having to juggle with the steering wheel to keep the car straight as she attempts to wobble all over the place. There are a few reasons for this, one of which could be play in the stabalisation bar. Land Rover Club.net has a page that talks more about this HERE.

Rust. The boot floor, rear X members, chassis mounts, rear wheel iner door wells (just inside the 90 bend), the front foot wells and iner wings. Although not as bad as the Range Rover, you still need to get to grips with it, before you end up having a lot of welding work for an MOT.

Boot inspection is either by getting your head under the back end or better still - lifting the rear carpet and cover to inspect the floor. Replacement sills are available at about £60 and should cost around £200 to weld in (unless you can do this yourself). The X member can be beefed up and the front floors can be patched (if caught in time) easily, unless you need a patch in the very front corner of the foot well, then you have access problems with the driver peddles. But its still feasible. The front iner wings are simply after market kits.

The BEST solution is to simply WASH your car after being off road, and try and not let mud 'store' in creases, and areas which can hold water - it will only rot the car in time.

Engine Noise. This can be the tappets or other engine ware issues. But commonly - its either the Vacuum pump (£85 replacement unit), a lift pump (£35) or a blown injector washer. One of the easiest ways to test this is to place one end of a long screw driver on the part being tested, and place your ear on the handle end and listen, You will clearly hear the clicking sound of the part which is faulty. All parts shouldn't take more than an hour to fix.

Smoke. The tdi engines tend to produce smoke if not looked after or sometimes can be traced to a faulty EGR valve sticking open. This later can either be replaced or removed and blanked off (covered soon).

Front seat collapse. The Driver seats usually go first as expected due to the level of use, anlong with the seat wall on the outer side loosing its 'stifness'. There are enough spares around to replace the seat with a new one, but expect this to fail unless you know the miles its done. Otherwise, a repair will be needed.

Electrics. Electric windows usually stick. This fault seams to be split between switches or actuator. The dash clock normally goes 'loopy' or looses bits of its self. The radio can stop working, and if fitted - the CD changer can cause battery drain.

Sunroof leak. Either electric or manual. Two manual setups are seen. Manual lift or crank. All are prone to seal failure resulting in being rained on inside.

Dash curl. The dash on the 300 will at some time start curling up. This is common and can be fixed with a kit for about £50. Its an absolute PIG to fit though.

Now - with all these faults - you might ask WHY OH WHY would anyone own such a vehicle. Simple. Its Brilliant, confitable and pending the niggling faults - pritty reliable. One thing I have found , is that LR's tend to keep going even with faults where other vehicles stop at the first thing going wrong. If you find a LR with everything working and no oil leaks... then It's never been used, probbly still in the dealer or a picture in the catalogue. For the oil leak - there is a saying. If your LR is not leaking - there is no oil in it. lol!